Weaving for women's economic empowerment, sustainable development and cultural preservation in Timor-Leste

But the weavers toil for subsistence incomes and they are having difficulties in preserving their incomes and their generations-old craft heritage.

Tais is handwoven textile made from cotton dyed with plants; it is used for decoration and traditional clothing. United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) says the practice is being threatened by the younger generation’s preference for modern clothing; replacement of handmade with machine alternatives, inadequate incomes, and a declining number of weavers. (The 2015 census found that only 10 per cent of households own looms.) Last year, UNESCO recognized Tais as an Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) in Need of Urgent Safeguarding.

Since 2018 Fundasaun Alola, Timor Aid and UN Women have jointly facilitated establishment of two tais (textile) weavers’ network as a sectoral coordination and a channel for weavers to advocate for and access training and opportunities to gain income security and have a formal role in efforts to support the Timor-Leste National Safeguarding plan for tais. The weavers’ network was suggested by weaver in the weavers’ gathering organized by UN women and Fundasaun Alola early 2018 that weavers need a space and leaders in helping to accommodate and advocacy their needs and raising their voice to be heard in national agenda for women’s economic development.  As an observation member to the National Committee of ICH, UN Women has a role to ensure weavers' voice are heard and their representation in the committee are valued. Since 2019, three partners working together in convening organization of the weaver networks and since 2021, the project was co-financially supported by the Together for Equality Project of the United Nations and Korea International Cooperation Agency to support capacity building of the weavers, capacity building the institutions of the weavers’ network and work with their partners to sensitize respectful relationships.

With this support, weavers networks have been set up in six municipalities; Baucau, Bobonaro, Covalima, Lautém, Oé-cusse and Viqueque. These networks bring together individual weavers and small groups of weavers to connect with development groups, connect with government offices and raise their concerns.

Since 2021, the project has trained 467 members of the weavers’ networks (459 women and 8 men) on weaving techniques, natural colour dyeing, product diversification, financial literacy and marketing in six municipalities. The weavers learn not only how to increase their incomes but also how to preserve the Tais tradition. Also, the project teaches the committees of each of the networks leadership and organizational management and helps them to register the networks as legal entities. 

Rita Amaral, 58, from Viqueque. Photo: UN Women/Fidel DoCeu

Rita Amaral, 58, from Viqueque, learned Tais from her mother and has been weaving since she was 12. She said: “I’ve been teaching my kids to weave to continue the culture and, more importantly, get income. Tais is sold only when there is a need for a ceremony. When there are fairs, then you’ll sell more. We are hoping to be exposed to more markets through this network.”

Amaral recently participated in a Money Minded training, given by ANZ Bank; the training is part of the UN Women-Together for Equality project.

“It was the first time I learned about Money Minded to control spending,” she said. “This will help me to save money for my children’s future and to finish the house we are building. I will share the knowledge with my family and weaver friends.”

In July 2022, the Authority of Lautém Municipality offered the weavers network one hectare of public land “to create a sustainable ecosystem for Tais production, and preservation of Lautém Tais heritage,” said Jacinto da Costa, Secretary of Lautém Authority. The network will be legally registered as a non-governmental organization, which will guarantee it access to government and donor funding.

In Baucau, the president of the women’s association, Regina de Sousa, said, “When weavers come together in a network association, their voice will be stronger and heard, and all the training provided will enhance the quality of Tais.”

Januario Filipe, 29, a member of the Baucau Tais network, said: “On average, every month I sell around three pieces and earn $250-$300. The challenge is that we only sell at home. We are looking for ways to expand our markets.”

“Weaving with traditional materials is time consuming and the process is quite complex,” she said. “I wish we could modernize the materials use.”

Weaving is more than just a livelihood for Filipe — “If I didn’t weave, I would feel sick.”

Filipe learned Tais from her mother and grandmother but is the only one among her siblings to continue the legacy. She has been teaching the craft to young people in her village, Soba.